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Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint - Gloss White
RUST-OLEUM-Dry Erase Paint. First there was chalkboard paint and magnetic paint now they have introduced a dry erase paint. This would be great for a child's bedroom playroom or home office. It is described as a smooth hard finish that creates a unique white writeable/erasable surface. Once dry simply use any dry erase markers to draw or write messages and then erase. Application is easy and has minimal odor making it safe to use indoors. Covers a 7 ft. x 7 ft. area. Made in China.
Easy to use two part water based system
Roll on application
Compatible with any dry erase markers and erasers
Ideal for dry wall, metal, masonite, cement, wood and more
|Average Customer Rating:
|| based on 123 reviews|
Average Customer Review:
( 123 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
576 of 584 found the following review helpful:
What they DON'T tell youJul 14, 2010
I bought one of these kits for my office, applied it as directed, and waited 2 days before marking on it. The mark wouldn't come off. After reading others' experiences, here and elsewhere, I started to get really nervous. It wasn't until I called the Rustoleum helpdesk that I found out what the problem was--the kit was old.
These Dry-Erase kits have a shelf-life of 2 years. Anything over that, and the paint won't mix properly. There's no way to check the date on the box, but there's a code on the bottom of the cans that can help you figure out how long your kit has been on the shelf. (The cans are stamped with a code that begins with a letter and a number; the number corresponds with the year in which it was packaged. For example, T9 or P0 would be 2009 and 2010 respectively.) For this reason, I wouldn't recommend buying this product online. Find it in a store and check the cans.
Another way to tell if the paint is old is to check its consistency. This is an epoxy, so it won't be as smooth as a latex-based paint. However, your paint stick should go through to the bottom cleanly. If there's an inch of gunk at the bottom, it's been sitting around a long, long time.
If you've gotten an old kit (and still have your receipt), you can contact Rustoleum (800-323-3584) for a hassle-free full refund. You can also remove the paint by using an epoxy stripper like Jasco Spray Paint Remover or Peel Away.
Now, for the good news. These kits--if you can find one that isn't archaic--work remarkably well. I managed to find a kit with a T0 stamp on it, applied it directly on top of the old kit, and it works wonderfully. I have noticed some colors don't erase as clean as others--red and green give me some grief, and the low-odor Expo markers don't work as well as the regular ones--but that's nothing I didn't experience with my old dry-erase board, and a few squirts of dry erase cleaner takes off 90% of any remaining 'shadows'.
295 of 305 found the following review helpful:
Worked Perfectly (or) How People Need to Read the InstructionsApr 17, 2011
So I was reluctant to buy this stuff after all the negative reviews online, but ultimately I decided to go for it and I'm happy to report that it works perfectly. In fact it works better than perfectly. So why all the negative reviews? My guess is that people didn't bother to read the instructions or just whipped through the process as quickly as they could. So, for all of you who want this to turn out great, here's what I did:
1. I was painting over already white walls. I started by lightly sanding over the paint, just to make it a little smoother and get rid of any gunk that had piled up over the year and a half since the paint was applied. After, I lightly went over the area with a dry dish rag to wipe off any dust from the sanding.
2. I painted over the areas with latex primer. Behr Enamel Undercoater Primer and Sealer is what I used. One coat. I used a STANDARD roller for this. I let it dry overnight.
3. The next day, I painted on the whiteboard paint with a FOAM roller! This is going to make all the difference. No running. No spillage. I waited 30 minutes between coats and did three coats. The box says it covers a 7x7ft area, however I painted a 5x5 area and a 2x2 area with three coats each and still had over half the can left over, which unfortunately I had to throw away at the end of the process because the paint is only good for two hours after the two cans are mixed together.
4. WAIT! The box says wait 2 days. I went to Vegas for five. Painted it early Monday afternoon and tested it Saturday morning when I got back. Worked JUST like a dry erase board. I used EXPO BOLD COLOR ORIGINAL INK pens (apparently people have had problems with the low odor) and all four colors (black, blue, red, green) work perfectly. Wipes right off with a dry napkin. Don't need to wet it down. Don't need dry erase spray. Haven't tested it with eraser yet.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the paint expires. I found this out by reading some of the other reviews online. The paint I used had a 0 on the bottom of the small can representing 2010, and it worked fine. If your can has a 0 or 1 you should be good. If it has a 9, I'd stay away, but that's just my opinion. I believe the number you are looking for is the very last number printed on the bottom of the can, but refer to previous reviews for the exact info.
That's it! It works perfectly if you follow the directions and use your brain. I hope this review helps those of you who are a little iffy on using the product. I couldn't be happier! I may post a video of the board in action if some of you still need a little more peace of mind.
144 of 146 found the following review helpful:
My experience was successful - here's why.Dec 30, 2013
After reading the reviews of this product I was terrified to use it, but really wanted a dry erase wall. So I called the Rust-Oleum customer service line and asked them a number of questions based on the reviews I'd read on Amazon. Here's what I learned to make this product work successfully.
1. The number one reason for product failure is expired product. End of story. This paint is only good for one year from date of manufacture. To determine the manufacturing date, look at the number printed on the bottom of the large can. Let's say it says 83219R. The representative told me to disregard the first and last digits and look at those in the middle. This paint would have been manufactured on February 19, 2013 (year is first, then month, then date). If it's more than a year from manufacture return it because it will fail. I realize this contradicts another excellent review that said to look at the last digit on the bottom of the can. It's possible that Rust-Oleum changed their numbering system and may do so again. When in doubt, call. I also would not purchase this product online because you can't personally check the cans (sorry, Amazon). The first cans I bought at Home Depot were indeed expired and when I exchanged them for newer product Home Depot put my expired cans back on the shelf and pretty much ignored what I said. So some other poor sap is going to have a dry erase wall from hell. I would suggest checking every can before purchase, period. You can hold a summoning and bring Michelangelo himself back from the dead to paint your wall, but if the product is expired it will suck regardless of who puts it on.
2. The second reason for failure is using the product too long after mixing. It's only good for 60 minutes after mixing the two cans. Period. If you start to get clumps, bumps or whatever it's been out too long and will fail. Don't put it on the wall, call Rust-Oleum and pitch a fit. I used a disposable paint tray and did the cut-in work last so that the freshest paint was rollered on to the largest portion of the wall. I discarded the disposable tray when I did a second coat so that there was no product older than one hour mixing with the fresh product. The fresher, the better. That seemed to work really well.
3. Rust-Oleum says that two coats is sufficient. I disagree. When I had put two coats on my wall it was evident that the coverage was uneven so I added a third coat. This seemed to work. A fourth probably wouldn't be amiss, either, but I was honestly getting tired of this whole saga and decided three was enough. So far, so good.
4. Use the rollers that they recommend. If you don't, you get bubbles, sticky drips, etc. When using the recommended rollers it went on exactly as described. I got the wrong roller when I went back for the third coat and had to re-do it with a foam brush to get rid of the bubbles - tedious, to say the least, but I deserved it for taking a shortcut. So follow directions.
5. Once it's dry use the recommended markers - no low odor! We used expo traditional markers and they were just fine. The expo remover is also helpful in cleaning off completely, when you just erase it does leave a faint mark. My 8-year-old can clean the wall just fine, and the fact that he cleans anything is a miracle enough to give a positive rating.
6. It is not necessary to skim coat, sand or otherwise reconstruct your wall prior to painting. (Reference previous comment regarding Michelangelo.) I simply painted the wall with a good primer and applied the dry erase paint over that. Your wall can be as smooth as a baby's backside but if your paint is old your writing won't erase, you will be pissed off and come to Amazon to write a scathing review. You don't have to kill yourself with renovations to make it work!
After the wall had cured we tried drawing on it and it worked fine. My son is drawing super heroes to his heart's content without the mess of a chalk wall. They erase beautifully and he moves on to the next theme. So, success!!
I gave this product four stars because I believe Rust-Oleum needs to seriously examine their packaging and consumer education. It needs to plainly state how to identify if your product is expired. This isn't a fast moving product so it's very likely stuff on the shelf in your store is going to be expired and the product is getting a bad reputation because people are using old paint. They also need to train their front end people (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) to pull old kits so that more people have successful experiences with fresh kits. They also need to stress not mixing old paint (more than one hour old) with new paint. So don't pour your new mix into your old tray with remnants of the previous kit. It's more complicated than the chalk paint and their packaging and directions need to reflect that, but don't.
So yes, we have a totally cool dry erase wall, but I practically had to get a Master's Degree in Dry Erase Studies to ensure it was successful. It's worth it if you plan ahead and make sure you're getting the right product and using it as directed.
I've had the wall for a year and have had very few problems with it. If you leave something up for a long time it doesn't easily erase with the eraser but comes off without difficulty using Expo cleaner or Windex. Different colors of markers are harder to get off, like purple - but again, Windex removes everything so it's not an issue.
I'm really happy with this purchase. There are no stains and it looks fantastic.
194 of 210 found the following review helpful:
THE KIDS LOVE IT!May 06, 2008
By H. Kjar
This stuff is awesome! At first it was very runny trying to paint with it, until I realized I was using the wrong type of roller. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE TYPE OF ROLLER IT SAYS TO USE ON THE BOX!!! (I forgot which kind it says to use) If you try to use the wrong roller, it will go on runny, thin, and not at all consistent. I did the first two coats like that and it looked horrible. Then I did a couple more coats with the right type of roller and it painted on perfectly!
I used a magnetic primer underneath this, so now I have a magnetic white board! (see my magnetic paint review) I actually did this in our basement, underneath the stairs (that most people use as a little toy room area). I used three boxes of this paint for that whole area. However, I know two would have been fine if I had used the right brush at first.
I have had this finished for about 6 months now, and it still looks and works great. If it starts to look clouded up with markers (like all whiteboards do), I just use whiteboard spray cleaner and a paper towel on it. My kids, and all of the kids that come to our house LOVE drawing on our "walls."
20 of 20 found the following review helpful:
Very good value compared to compititionJul 20, 2012
I (and a friend of mine) painted a 11'x7' section of a wall in my home office. The whiteboard wall is functional and fun to use. I'm happy with the results. I think the expensive competitor product would have been better quality, meaning easier and faster to apply. If you can afford it, I recommend the more expensive product. It took a lot of work to make the wall whiteboard turn out well with this product.
- vast majority of the Expo brand marker wipes off with a dry rag. A wet wipe completely cleans the wall. (just like a regular whiteboard)
-Inexpensive. $50 for dry erase paint + $35 in prep materials + 3 nights work = 77sq foot whiteboard. The excellent competitor product costs about $200 for 50sq feet.
-The application was reasonably forgiving with regard to picking lumps off the wall
-Fun to have a huge whiteboard!
-It took 3 nights work (x2 people)
-The product can dry on the paint tray and flakes off onto the roller
-1 out of 3 kits was unusable
-either comes with or tends to develop little clumps that you have to pick off your wall
I read most of the reviews on this site. Mixed reviews for sure, but I couldn't afford to do my project with the much more expensive competitor product. Here's how I achieved success.
1) Prep the wall! User reviews suggest a smoother wall erases better. My wall had noticeable texture from the paint application. Not a big deal for a wall, but much more textured than a whiteboard. Probably normal texture for a medium nap roller. I took the advise to the extreme. I bought a tub of joint compound and watered it down a little to make a skim coat ($15). I taped off the section of the wall, then skim coated the surface and sanded. It took two applications of skim coat and sanding to make me happy (1st night). I primed the super smooth wall using the special high density foam rollers ($10, second night). After it dried, I very lightly sanded the primer like the instructions said.
2) Application of paint: I read the reviews about the paint going bad over time. So I bought 3 kits each from a different store/website. 2 kits worked OK, the third one had a clumpy layer on the bottom of can A. This layer broke up into a million clumps when stirred. I returned this kit, it was unusable. The other two worked mostly as expected. However, I experienced a problem where the dried paint on the roller pan ramp started flaking off, creating lumps in the paint. I then had to start watching for clumps and picking them off the wall while the paint was still wet. This was a real pain. The up side is that the paint was pretty tolerant of me picking off or wiping off with a wet cloth the clumps. I just rolled over the area I picked at and it was good as new. I used the small high density foam rollers mentioned in other reviews ($10). I followed the instructions by waiting about 20 minutes between coats. Each kit covered the area about 3.5 times. I got about 7 coats out of the two kits (3rd night).
3) Let it Dry. I let my wall dry/cure for 4 days before writing on it. That's twice the recommended wait time.
- I think waiting 20 minutes allowed the thin paint on the roller pan ramp to dry, causing very bothersome lumps. I suggest you not wait as long as the instructions say between coats. 5 minutes is probably enough. If your wall is big like mine, you probably don't have to wait at all between coats.
- Plan ahead. You only have two hours once you mix the paint parts together. I ended up using about 4 rollers and two different paint trays while applying the whiteboard paint. So just make sure you have everything you need before you start.
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